Build your next PC like a pro
We all know that PC stands for “personal computer,” and the best way for it to be truly personal is to actually build it yourself. This is the ideal route for those of us who want to choose and optimize each of the components, so that the rig is designed to perform its best, given budget constraints. You might think of it in terms of a restaurant’s offerings: While the early-bird special might satisfy some people, for the real devotees, the only way is to go is à la carte to have full control of all the courses.
There are plenty of guides to point out the essentials of building a new computer, but here we’ll go beyond the basics, to showcase the secrets of the pros. While you might take a course in high school or college to learn the basics, to go beyond that entry level, there are graduate seminars that go into the advanced level of knowledge—consider this a master class.
Planning the Build
While anyone can screw together a system from a collection of computer parts purchased as part of a barebones special from a retailer, this will likely produce a mediocre system at best. Rather, a really great PC requires thoughtful planning of each component. For a system focused on gaming, the focus needs to be on the GPU first, for example. However, for a system designed for video-editing duties, the system should be designed around the CPU and the large amount of RAM that is required for a multithreaded workload.
After the basics of the system are sketched out, including the CPU, GPU, motherboard, and RAM, it’s the time to check for compatibility between parts. One way to check the CPU and RAM compatibility is by looking at the manual for the motherboard, which will list its approved parts. This can be done before purchase by looking for the PDF of the manual from the manufacturer’s website. This information can then be confirmed by using an online builder, such as PC Part Picker(http://ift.tt/1MSZaPV). This useful website allows a collection of parts to be entered, and shows what options for compatible parts are available for a given motherboard, along with prices from actual retailers to get the most bang for the buck. This also serves to give an estimate of wattage for the power supply required to run the rig. This wattage estimate should be confirmed with a second online tool, but avoid the ones from manufacturers (which tend to be biased toward larger PSUs) and use an independent one such as Power Supply Calculator (http://ift.tt/1v7EeY4). It is also a good rule of thumb to buy a little more power supply than is needed, as this will allow for future expansion of the system and help with system stability, although an overpowered PSU is inefficient and more expensive.
Tool Selection
From left to right: a Phillips head screwdriver, a claw pick-up tool with a grabbed screw, and a 1/4-inch nut driver.
To get any job done well and smoothly, the right tools are essential. For a PC build, a full set of both slotted and Phillips head screwdrivers are a must; name-brand tools are recommended as the cheap ones slip and strip screws. For smaller screws, micro screwdrivers are useful, and the shorter length facilitates them getting into tight spots. For a screw that also has hex on it (as are used on cases), a nut driver has the advantage over a screwdriver of grabbing the fastener and not stripping it as screwdrivers tend to do.
For grabbing things, needle-nose pliers are invaluable as they can securely grab a wide variety of objects. For screws and other tiny parts that get dropped into the darkest corners of the case, a claw pick-up tool can retrieve the lost items with ease.
Static Electricity
Static electricity happens when electrical charge builds up on a material’s surface. We’ve all experienced this phenomenon when we shuffle across a carpeted floor in the winter, touch the doorknob, and getting zapped. While this can be annoying when opening the door, when building a computer, this transfer of static charge has the potential to damage sensitive electronic components. This is further magnified with a computer being built that is not plugged into an outlet and therefore not grounded.
The textbook answer is to wear an anti-static wrist band. This clips from the wrist to the metal case, and prevents the electrical charge from getting built up. That said, with some common sense, the wrist guard is not truly necessary. While they are commonly discussed, most builders we know have never used one. Understanding the problem, we simply don’t do our builds on a carpeted floor. In addition, touching another metal object such as a pipe before touching any of the sensitive parts will discharge any static buildup. Finally, keep parts in the their antistatic bags before they’re ready to be installed. That’s really all there is to it. Now you can put your anti-static wrist guard next your tinfoil hat!
Cable Routing
A Velcro cable tie can easily and reversibly secure several wires at the same time. They also come in a variety of colors to match your installation.
An easy way to differentiate a well-built rig from an amateur build is to look at how the cables are routed and secured in the case. Some mainstream manufacturers pretty much just throw the parts in the chassis, make the necessary connections, and pay no attention to routing cables. With all the connections that are necessary inside a rig, a robust system can have lots of wires to route.
Routing cables and securing them can be as much of an art form as a science. While this is an essential skill for a case build with a Plexiglas window (if you don’t want to embarrass yourself when others peek in), there are benefits even when the cable routing is not normally visible. Some of the advantages include the cables not interfering with the airflow through the case (theoretically leading to lower temps), and having all the wires far away from the fans so the two don’t get into a tangle.
For starters, let’s look at cable length. It should be long enough to follow the desired route, but not so excessively long that the excess creates a problem. Cables come in a variety of lengths for exactly this reason, and choosing the correct one is important. In the case of cables that are too short, extension cables are available for power and SATA, or you can opt to simply buy a longer cable. Also, SATA cables are available with a right-angle connector; there are many instances where it may be the better fit than the straight-on approach.
There are a variety of options for ways to secure a cable to the case, and they all have their own advantages and disadvantages—there is no one best option for all situations. With a custom build, using a variety as dictated by the situation is the mark of a pro builder.
Some cases have prebuilt pathways to hold cables. If these integrated retainers are there, we find it best to use them.. Depending on how secure the cable is within the pathway, an additional device can be used as well.
One affordable option is to secure the cable with electrical tape. While this is simple, the disadvantage is that it may not be easy to undo, and if it has to be cut has the potential to damage the cable underneath.
Another popular option is zip ties. They come in a variety of colors and lengths, and are quite versatile. While the advantage is that they are very secure, the disadvantages are that they are single-use, and when tightened too tightly can notch and damage the cables underneath. It is generally good practice to trim the excess length of a zip tie after it has been secured. Also, be aware that there are reusable zip ties (http://ift.tt/1MSZcqU) on the market, although they cost more initially and are not as widely available.
Finally, we really like self-attaching Velcro cable ties (http://ift.tt/1JuZnld), which address many of the shortcomings of the other options. The advantages include reusability, and as they are wider, they’re less likely to damage the cables underneath. They also do not need to be trimmed as any excess can just be wound around so that it does not stick out. Their only real shortcoming is that they cost more initially, although as they will last for years and across several builds, they’re a good investment.
Drive Installation
An example of a white felt disc used to quiet a buzzy small form factor case.
Storage drives are designed to fit securely into their metal drive cages. Unfortunately, a hard drive made principally of metal, combined with a metal drive cage, in a situation where both the case from cooling fans, and the rotating platters of a mechanical drive (as opposed to a solid state drive, or SSD) are a situation of too many moving parts, and often end in a loud buzz every time the platters of the hard drive spin up. We’ve had systems where the mechanical noises of the hard drive were literally getting amplified via the case.
While some drivers may prefer the sound of a throaty V-8 of a muscle car, nobody really wants to listen to their hard drive spin up and down. While the problem is less of an issue these days with an increasing prevalence of SSDs for main system drives, most rigs still need a mechanical drive for the serious storage until multi-terabyte SSDs become affordable. Thankfully, this is a fixable problem.
It really comes down to stabilizing the mechanical hard drive in the drive cage. The first step is to have the drive fastened with screws at multiple points. Occasionally, for whatever reason, the predrilled holes in the drive cage don’t match up to those in the drive. If you’re up for it, additional holes can be drilled in the metal (http://ift.tt/1MSZaPX) so that there are two screws on each side. The screws should be snug, but don’t overdo it and strip them. If the screws repeatedly loosen up, clear nail polish can be used on the threads before installation so the screw stays secure in its intended spot.
After the screw situation is sorted out, the other key step is to install the drive with some cushioning. The goal here is to avoid metal against metal, so that every vibration of the drive is not transmitted to the drive cage and metal case. There are some simple options that can accomplish this. Those felt dots that are sold in art supply stores work nicely. While designed to cushion moving parts in furniture, they are just thick enough to fill the gap between the drive and the enclosure. They also are self-adhesive, so they can be positioned on the drive, and this prevents them from moving as the drive is shoved into place installed. A similar solution to the felt pads are self-adhesive non-skid foam pads (http://ift.tt/1JuZpcU). They’re used in the same way as the felt dots, but the foam provides even more cushioning than the felt and also compresses better. The foam can also be found in strips(http://ift.tt/1MSZaPZ), rather than having to use multiple pads.
The foam and felt pads can also be used to silence other case sounds that occur where metal meets metal, such as when the cover of a case doesn’t fit precisely on the underlying frame of the case.
Thermal Paste
Thermal paste, the goopy stuff that sits between the top of the CPU and the cooler, quickly becomes one of the most controversial parts of a system. While with a prebuilt system you get whatever Dell or HP is able to purchase by the economical fifty-five gallon drum, for a home-built system we get to choose this important substance ourselves. Filling the microscopic gaps between the top of the CPU and the cooler, thermal paste is crucial in keeping the CPU cool; it enhances the transfer of heat off the CPU to the cooler, which then dissipates it.
Amateurs worry about how much paste to apply—the rookie error is to apply way too much. The simple answer is just enough, but not too much. This is not a case of more is better; too thick a layer of the paste acts as an insulator to the heat, which is the opposite of what needs to occur. If it’s gooshing out the side, then too much was applied. Estimates of how much to place generally talk about a grain of rice, or a BB. The goal is to have the entire surface of the CPU covered with a thin layer of the thermal paste, and definitely no more. In terms of the choice of thermal paste, Arctic Silver 5 is a favorite.
We usually apply a pea-sized amount of thermal paste, and do it with the CPU out of the motherboard. We then spread it out with a gloved finger. Avoid touching the thermal paste or the CPU directly, as skin oils can contaminate the paste and reduce its effectiveness. The goal is to apply it as evenly as possible, and if there’s too much on one edge, it can be wiped off. Conversely, tiny amounts of additional paste can be applied until the top of the CPU is covered from edge to edge.
In cases where the CPU or thermal paste needs to be reapplied, the existing thermal paste should be removed. While there are commercial kits for this, isopropyl alcohol is our solvent of choice. It’s available in pharmacies, and evaporates quickly. We’ll spare you the pain of a college Organic Chemistry class, and summarize that isopropyl alcohol in the 70 percent strength is a safe balance of solvent and rapid evaporation, leaving no residue. It is also quite affordable compared to commercial thermal paste remover.
Bits & Bytes
Here are a few remaining tidbits to keep in mind:
That CD-ROM that ships with your motherboard has the drivers. However, while it is good to have for situations where you lose your internet access, the drivers are very likely to be out of date. Be sure to go to the manufacturer’s website to download the latest ones. Also, be sure to flash the latest bios upgrades onto the motherboard, which are often crucial to getting the latest processors to work.
Installing RAM in a motherboard is not intuitively obvious, particularly in boards with several slots. In order to take advantage of all the RAM, especially in dual-channel configuration, or when using a single RAM stick, installation in the correct slots is key. The motherboard manual will contain the information on what order to populate the RAM slots, and it is important to follow it.
Finally, with a new system build, remember that a new copy of Windows is required. With Windows 7 support to end in 2020, and Windows 8/8.1 offering no advantage over Windows 10 these days, most new builds should use Windows 10 as an OS. Also, to use four or more GB of RAM, a 64 bit version of the OS is required.
Keeping in mind these techniques, even a novice can produce a well-designed and -assembled PC. Time to get planning and take your build to the next level!
From maximumpc
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