Save some space under your desk and a little cash in your wallet with a killer microATX or Mini-ITX chassis
You don’t need a massive case to have an amazing system. There, we said it. In fact, we’d almost argue that giant, mid-, and full-tower cases are becoming unnecessarily extravagant in today’s era of computer components.
Think about it. What’s the bare minimum you need for a killer desktop nowadays? Motherboard? Fast processor? Got it. Mini-ITX and microATX cases won’t have a problem with that. Videocard? A good, small case should be able to handle anything you throw its way. Heck, go for two videocards if you can.
Storage? If you’re a speed enthusiast, you’re just going to need space for a single, huge SSD—which you can stick just about anywhere you want in a small case, even if you don’t have a dedicated 2.5-inch bay for it (which you really should). Better cases will let you supplement a crazy-fast SSD with an easy-to-install, fat ol’ hard drive. And there you have it: One great gaming rig, and you didn’t need a case the height of your desk to get it done.
That said, there are plenty of peculiarities that can occur when manufacturers attempt to save as much space as possible in their small-chassis creations. And that’s the most frustrating thing about these smaller cases—the possibility for error is a lot greater. Buy a poorly designed case, and you’ll fi nd yourself having a lot more difficult a time building your system. Or, worse, an uglier inside.
The cases in this roundup run the gamut of excellent, horrible, and outlandish design. However, we’re happy to do the grunt work just so you can have a great experience with your next system build.
The main reason for investing in a new case is for a new build. When you’re doing that, there’s going to be some guesswork as to how the machine is actually going to be used. You may, for instance, discover the cooler you’ve got in mind doesn’t quite cut it, and you might need to use a double-width radiator fan instead of a single one. You may realize you want that second graphics card after all, or that your motherboard’s on-board audio doesn’t produce the quality you were expecting and now you need to make way for an add-in card.
In other words, whenever you’re building a new machine from scratch, you need some flexibility in the kind of case you’re looking at to make sure none of these little hiccups result in you wasting money.
There are other reasons why you might be looking for a funky new chassis, but the chance of a case failing you or annoying you enough that you feel you need to replace it are fairly low. A new chassis won’t make your games run smoother, it won’t improve rendering times, and it won’t make everything you do look even more awesome than it does already. Unless you have a serious problem with your current case, replacing it isn’t going to have many tangible benefits to your day-to-day use.
What a good case will do, however, is give your components enough airflow to keep them working optimally. A good case won’t rattle as the fans spin up, and will have all the ports and sockets within easy reach. It will also have enough space for your current components and to accommodate expansions as your needs change. A great case will make you want to put your build on show rather than hide it under your table.
Left: Seeing inside your case isn’t vital, unless you want your rig to look as gorgeous as this Corsair Graphite 760T, of course. Right: Saving cash and going budget doesn’t have to mean you end up with rubbish, thanks to the likes of the Gigabyte GZ-MA02.
Standardization
Standards are core to the resilience of the PC. The fact that you could, in theory, have components in your current PC that have been with you for decades has helped it endure as a platform. While the practicalities of innovation mean that this unlikely to be the case, it’s certainly possible that the evolution of the platform means that you’re rocking a soundcard, a hard drive, a cooler, or even a case that predates the rest of your system. Key to this is the ATX specifi cation, which has meant the core components of our systems are fundamentally compatible with each other.
There have been plenty of challenges to the ATX specifi cation, but it remains the dominant standard for chassis, motherboards, and power supplies. This isn’t a bad place to be on many levels, either. Knowing that the vast majority of motherboards you can buy will fit happily into the vast majority of cases, and that you’ll be able to power that motherboard with the vast majority of power supplies makes life that much easier.
We emphasized the “vast majority” angle because, despite ATX’s dominance, it isn’t the only standard out there. Certain market sectors have focused on making smaller and smaller computers, and here the fullsized nature of the ATX specifi cation makes less sense. If you can make a computer that’s little bigger than a credit card and requires less than a watt of power to run, when there’s no need for a specification that’s designed to keep a power-hungry workstation running smoothly.
There are plenty of options on the small form factor side of things, with the likes of Intel’s NUC and the Gigabyte BRIX opening new possibilities thanks to their tiny form factors. This is an area we can see expanding, especially as AMD and Intel are focusing on system on a chip designs. Such machines are a little specialist for general PC builds though, and tend to be sold either as fully functioning machines straight out of the box, or as barebones systems.
If you’re looking to build a small machine from scratch, then your options basically come down to microATX or Mini-ITX designs. Of these you have more options if you go down the mATX route, simply as there are more cases out there, and a lot more motherboards as well. MicroATX as a standard benefits from the fact that you can install a microATX motherboard inside a full ATX case too, which always gives you an upgrade path to a bigger machine.
Think Big
There are several factors that will determine the kind of chassis you’re willing to look at. Size is important here—simply because you know how much space you have on (or under) your desk. There are a lot of unknowns for most of us when it comes to smaller cases though, with the perception being that the cooling in a smaller case isn’t adequate for the sort of high-end components most of us have in mind. This isn’t necessarily true though, with a swath of small chassis appearing recently that have been designed with gaming hardware in mind. We’re specifi cally thinking about the likes of the BitFenix Prodigy, the Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced, and Fractal Design’s Nano.
Of course, if you’re looking to build an SLI rig with loads of storage and the best processor around, overclocked to the max, then the space and versatility afforded by a big case is generally the way to go. Having said that though, there are microATX X99 motherboards available with twin PCIe x16 ports, so size isn’t quite the limiting factor many think it is. Even so, when it comes to dropping serious money, we understand if you want to house your kit in a big, kick-ass case. Here the venerable Cosmos II is still an impressive chassis to consider, although the price you’ll pay for such space can be eye-watering.
Beyond the space available inside the case, the other factors worth considering are general system airflow and acoustics. Airflow isn’t just about the amount of fans installed with the case as standard, but how many mounting points there are and where they’re situated. If you’re looking to build a silent, or near silent, system then you’re going to need to look at sound-absorbent materials and/or use a chassis designed for the task. Factoring in your CPU cooling is also vital.
Whatever you need, if you’re mulling over going mini, read on for our roundup of the variety of tiny cases currently on the market.
The Incredible Shrinking PC
If you’ve been in this game long enough, you’ll recognize the likes of Nano-ITX, Pico-ITX, flexATX and other tiny form factors that have been tipped at one point or another as the next big thing. Most of these have disappeared without trace, mainly because they were niche options and the costs involved forced the end user price up to silly levels.
We doubt history will repeat itself with the second coming of the mini-PC though, as there’s now a real place for them. Imagine these tiny systems as pimped streaming machines, which take the output from your big gaming rig and put its power at your disposal around the home. The possibilities are a lot more enticing than previously.
These machines aren’t as dumb as they once were. They’re powerful and usable in their own right. You aren’t limited to using them solely as streaming machines—if you want to do some heavy surfing, productivity, or indeed gaming, you can. Intel’s and AMD’s graphics subsystems really are at the point where you can throw polygons around at smooth frame rates as long as you’re prepared to make a few quality sacrifi ces. If you need the best settings, that’s where in-home streaming steps in.
Such machines tend to be sold as barebones kits, but the likes of the Intel NUC are available without a chassis, which should lead to case manufacturers branching out of their microATX and Mini-ITX ways. If nothing else, you could follow Raspberry Pi’s lead and build your own case. It’s not as hard as you’d think.
Lian-Li PC-V360
Plenty of customization, little headache
at a glance
(+) Bruce Lee
Solid construction; stacks of space; allows for plenty of build options.
(-) Mini-Me
Annoying USB port positioning.
With its PC-V360 mid-tower chassis, Lian-Li lives up to the company’s expectations as a top case-maker and crafts up yet another winner. The case’s all-aluminum construction feels a lot more durable than your typical aluminum-and-plastic variant from competing manufacturers. Perhaps it’s a byproduct of Lian-Li’s manufacturing process, but the PC-V360 feels rigid and strong. Its side panel pops off—no thumbscrews or screwdrivers necessary—to reveal a wealth of space on the inside. It’s so roomy (and so wide), we’re surprised Lian-Li didn’t just go ahead and add a little extra vertical space and make the case completely ATX-compatible.
There’s plenty of room inside the case for a microATX motherboard, and installing it is a simple process. You do, however, have to first unscrew the case’s water-cooling bracket and pivot it a bit out of the way. Yes, this microATX chassis supports a two-bay radiator setup. Crazy, isn’t it?
The motherboard tray is a bit raised off the chassis’ side, which means you can neatly wrap and hide cables around the small gap between it and the side panel. That’s great news for system builders who want to add a little touch of elegance to their builds, though you won’t really notice it from the case’s outside (as it lacks a side panel window to peer through).
The case’s single 5.25-inch bay isn’t screwless, but we appreciate that Lian-Li only gives you one of them. As a result, you get five 3.5-inch bays to work with (in a single, removable cage) and three 2.5-inch bays below it in a similarly removable cage. You can even transform one of those 3.5-inch bays into a 2.5-inch bay.
Cage Fighting
So, if you’re big on solid-state drives, you can just remove the middle drive cage and increase your case’s airflow a little bit—a 12cm intake fan is wedged between said cage and the case’s front. While the extrawide case felt a smidge cramped for our GeForce GTX 480 card (as a result of the 2.5-inch cage), at least you can also remove the latter to increase the space if you don’t plan to stash a ton of SSDs in your system.
As for installing the drives, you simply attach four screws (and four rubber mounts) to your drives, then slide them into place. A simple locking mechanism for all the drives ensures they won’t slip out of the chassis if you happen to bump it—thankfully.
We didn’t like the sideways positioning of the case’s two USB 3.0 ports, as it means you can’t really put the case’s right half against a wall (or other object). The ports are also pretty low to the ground, which will give you quite a stretch if you’re reaching down to access them from your desk. However, this is a minor quibble for such a great chassis. If you have a lot of crazy ideas for your next microATX rig, this highly customizable case will suit you well.
Verdict: 9
$130 (street), www.lian-li.com
Rosewill Line-M
A bit too tiny for our tastes
at a glance
(+) Major League
Good cooling; lots of room for videocards; generous with USB ports.
(-) Little League
Far from perfect design; very little space for cabling.
Rosewill’s Line-M microATX chassis looks pretty simple from the outside, but it’s going to give you a bit of grief when you go to build the world’s tiniest PC on the inside. While we appreciate Rosewill’s intentions— sucking as much wasted space out of the 7.29 by 14.37 by 15.74-inch chassis as it possibly can—we did have a bit of difficulty during our system building.
Stashing a microATX board inside the chassis wasn’t that tough, but we started to get concerned when we threw in our power supply. Though this is supposed to be a mini-tower chassis, there’s no way to conceal cables whatsoever in the case. We suppose you could wedge all of your extra wiring in the case’s 3.5-inch bay (in the manual, Rosewill thinks you’ll use this for a floppy disk drive. Ha!), but that’s not the most ideal treatment.
Installing optical drives into the case’s single two free 5.25-inch bays is easy, and you don’t even need screws to lock them into place. The aforementioned 3.5-inch bay uses a similar locking mechanism, but the holes don’t line up with those found on 3.5-inch hard drives or 2.5-inch SSDs. You’ll have to remove the connector, or ignore it, to just screw your hard drive into the case directly. Rosewill also provides two mounts below that for hard drives, but a 3.5-inch drive brushed right up against our RAM when we populated our motherboard’s four memory slots with decently sized memory sticks. Have fun with the cabling on this one.
We do like the ample room Rosewill leaves for videocards of all sizes, and the case’s cooling—a 12cm rear fan and blue 12cm front fan—is potent. Two USB 2.0 and two USB 3.0 ports round out the case’s features; a nice addition, we just wish the insides were better-configured.
Verdict: 6
$40 (street), www.rosewill.com
Mini-ITX vs microATX
Micro. Mini. It’s all the same, right? We’re just talking small motherboards—a miniaturized form factor compared to your traditional ATX motherboard, which is the thing that’s likely sitting in your desktop PC right now. It sounds a bit like alphabet soup, but it’s important to know the differences. There are differences, and they’re critical in regards to just what you’ll be able to put into the system you’re planning to construct.
A good, tiny case should support both microATX and Mini-ITX. You’ll want to triple-check this is accurate when purchasing a case, lest you be stuck with a mobo you can’t screw into your chassis for whatever reason.
A Mini-ITX motherboard is smaller than a mATX motherboard, which is itself much smaller than a standard ATX motherboard. Mini- ITX motherboards only have two DIMM slots for memory, which could present an issue for those looking to cram their systems full of an absurd amount of RAM. The best ones only tend to have one expansion slot, though it’s at least going to be a PCI Express x16 slot. And you’ll likely find fewer SATA ports on a Mini-ITX motherboard, but you’ll probably run out of space in a tiny case for drives before you run out of ports.
In contrast, mATX motherboards will have all four DIMM slots at the ready, and you’ll get more expansion slots to play with. Ideally, you’ll be able to SLI or Crossfi re your videocards. You’ll also probably get more USB ports, but the difference between six and eight isn’t huge, to use one example (especially once you factor in your case’s USB capabilities as well).
Silverstone PS08
Bring a screwdriver... and some grease
at a glance
(+) G.I. Jane
Covers easy to remove; accessible USB ports.
(-) Plain Jain
Very little space; building is frustrating; looks unexciting.
Silverstone's PS08 Case is simple and small. The company went to great lengths to eliminate excess space from the case’s inside, but we think the cuts ran too deep. We didn’t have a horrible time building a normal system in this chassis, but we didn’t have a great one, either.
The case’s thumbscrews that hold its side panel in place were a little stiff when we went to remove them. We didn’t have any troubles throwing in a microATX motherboard, but it’s a tight fit against the start of the case’s two 5.25-inch bays and four 3.5-inch bays. The case gives you a smidgen of room to run cables behind the motherboard, but it’s not enough. Overlap your cables, and you’ll likely create a little bulge in the case’s plastic side panel.
Installing 5.25-inch devices into the case is easy, but it requires a screwdriver. The same goes for any 3.5-inch drives you stash into the PS08. You can screw a single SSD into the case’s bottom, but that’s all the support you get for 2.5-inch drives.
While the PS08 comes with ample room for videocards up to 14.1 inches in length, you can’t actually stick one in horizontally. At least, not directly. You have to tilt the card to fit it below the case’s drive bays, and then attach it to your motherboard as you normally would. We don’t mind the treatment, though it’s a pain to connect your videocard to your power supply afterward.
The case’s front panel is pretty plain. Its drive bay covers are easy to remove and its two USB 3.0 ports are easy to access. The same holds true for the filter covering its single 12cm cooling fan. We’d prefer a second fan located on the case’s top or rear for more cooling.
Verdict: 6
$40 (street), http://ift.tt/RlFw0u
Rosewill R363-M BK
It’s so bad we’re a bit baffled
at a glance
(+) San Francisco Bay
Gorgeous.
(-) Michael Bay
Excessive power supply; lack of pre-drilled holes; USB ports and power button too inaccessible.
No, no, no. Rosewill gets so many things wrong with its R363-M chassis that we can’t help but think this was a whiteboard brainstorm that accidentally got out of the lab and into production.
For starters, the case ships with a 400W power supply. We appreciate the move, but we feel it’s completely unnecessary. If you’re buying a bare-bones case, you’re building a PC. You don’t need hand-holding with your power supply. We’d rather have a lower price tag than a crappy, pre-installed PSU (with no 6- or 8-pin connections whatsoever for your videocard).
The case’s two 5.25-inch bays require screws when you’re installing devices. The case doesn’t give you pre-drilled holes for the devices, just a single open bar of space that the screws grip the top and bottom of. The same is true for its two internal 3.5-inch bays, only, you don’t even get a little tab for your hard drives or devices to sit on. They float in mid-air. We don’t mind this treatment when hard drives sit in a drive bay via rubber grommets, but this is simply a cheaper implementation.
We don’t know why Rosewill built a complicated mechanism for the case’s single internal 3.5-inch bay when a simple thumbscrew would have worked fine. Nevertheless, you have to remove the bay to install a hard drive, and this is the only bay that actually comes with the correct holes pre-drilled for a drive.
The case’s glossy black exterior looks amazing, though ours came scratched as shipped. It has two USB ports, but they’re hidden on the bottom of the case’s front panel by a push-locking cover. The case’s power button is around here as well, which will a bit of a stretch from your desk if you place this case on the ground.
Verdict: 4
$50 (street), www.rosewill.com
Silverstone Sugo SST-SG09B
Time to get crafty
at a glance
(+) MacGyver
Good-looking; offers a challenging but rewarding build; decent cooling.
(-)MacGuffin
PCI brackets quite awkward; not much space.
Silverstone takes the concept of miniature case design to the next level with its SG09 case, a great option for beginners (and those with more experience) to work on their system-building wings. It’s small, compact, and nothing like anything you’ve probably worked with before, but it’s worth the extra time if you don’t mind a challenge.
The case’s multiple panels require a screwdriver to remove, but that’s the least of your worries. A microATX motherboard fits—barely—and your typical 5.25-inch bay has been condensed to fi t a slot-loading optical drive. It’ll look good when you’re done, but we doubt you have a slot-loading drive sitting around at home.
Power Play
Two holes are all you get for cable management—a challenge, but not an impossibility. The power supply mounts in the case’s front, and its cables will all wrap around to the right side. Silverstone’s SG09 presents a pretty compelling argument for putting a modular power supply on your shopping list.
Two hard drives mount vertically on the case’s right side, and four 2.5-inch solidstate drives can be screwed into the case in a similar fashion below that. It’s good news that the case itself comes with ample cooling: a rear 12cm fan is joined by a 12cm fan on the case’s left side panel and a huge 18cm fan on top. Plus, two USB 3.0 ports can be found placed conveniently on the case’s front.
On its rear, we were a bit frustrated by the chassis’ PCI brackets, which require a bit of unscrewing to manipulate. On the plus side, you can stuff a videocard up to 13.5 inches long into your system. Powerbuilding challenge: accepted.
Verdict: 8
$100 (street), http://ift.tt/RlFw0u
Things to Consider When Buying a Case
A great case shouldn’t be a pain in the butt to install a system in. That’s the easy answer. The harder part is defining just what that means—and how you can avoid turning a normal system build into a day-long affair.
We’re big fans of cases that are screwless wherever possible. We don’t want to have to bust out tools to take the side panel off, nor do we think you should have to screw in your optical drives and hard drives as long as its avoidable. As well, we like it when a case comes with 3.5-inch drive bays that can be easily repurposed for 2.5-inch SSDs. You’ll have to screw in your mobo; there’s no way around that, though we greatly prefer cases that give you a little wiggle room. Wedging a board into a case isn’t an ideal practice.
Small cases need to have some good method for cable management and, no, stuffing all of your cables into a free drive bay isn’t the answer. We’ll gladly give up an inch or so of width so long as we can have some room behind the motherboard tray to work magic. Support for big videocards is a must, but we don’t want to recommend a maximum size on this one. A prospective case should fit your parts; if you have a smaller videocard, you shouldn’t rule out cases that support… smaller videocards. Finally, USB 3.0 ports are important, since that’s the new standard. What’s more important is that these ports, and the case’s power button, are easily accessible. You shouldn’t have to bust out a yoga move at your desk just to plug in storage or turn on your PC.
Deep Cool Steam Castle
A unique design that doesn’t quite work
at a glance
(+) Cool as Ice
Looks fantastic; well-designed insides are easy to work with.
(-) Willing to Sacrifice
Bit bulky; needs to sort out lighting and fan issues.
Such potential, truly. We had high hopes for Deep Cool’s Steam Castle chassis, as we haven’t seen a microATX case with such a unique appearance in some time. The Steam Castle looks a bit like someone took a Jaeger from Pacific Rim and mashed it down into a 16-by-11-by-16.5-inch box. It’s a bit bulky for the tiny motherboards it supports, but there’s a lot going on inside this little fortress.
Your entire system rotates 90 degrees when you stash it inside the Steam Castle, as the motherboard tray sits on the bottom of the case’s upper-half—it’s not vertical, like most cases you’ve probably worked with. That does pose a bit of a dilemma for screwing in the mobo to its standoffs, but the top of Deep Cool’s case is easy enough to pop off, granting you plenty of access with a screwdriver. We also love that the case’s PCI brackets are locked in with a mechanism that only demands you loosen or tighten a single thumbscrew. Excellent.
The case’s 5.25-inch bay requires screws, though it’s easy to pop off the case’s front panel and remove the drive bay’s cover. Its 3.5-inch bay below that also requires screws, but it can hold a 3.5-inch hard drive or 2.5-inch SSD.
The other drive bays are found in its front, directly in front of its huge 20cm fan, and to the right of where you install your power supply on the case’s bottom (nearly touching the right side panel). The front bay is entirely screwless; you can either use the provided trays to quickly lock up to two 3.5-inch drives or you can bust out the screwdriver and attach two SSDs. The case’s other bay only fits 2.5-inch drives, but it’s screwless as well—locking mechanisms this time, not drive trays, though you have to pop off the right side panel to best reach it.
See the Light
The major theme of the Steam Castle is more its external design than anything else. The case’s smooth, black exterior is punctuated by what would be four big turbines on its top, were the case an aircraft. We actually thought these were pre-installed fans at first, so it was a bit of a letdown—but not much—when we found they were actually LED lights that glowed red, green, or blue. A dial on the case’s side controls the lights and, presumably, up to three fans connected to the case’s built-in controller. The dial isn’t the most accurate for turning the case’s lighting up and down, and it did nothing for the connected fans.
Since said dial, as well as the power button, two USB 3.0 ports, and two USB 2.0 ports are on the right side panel, you’re limited to where you can put this case. While we love Deep Cool’s ingenious internals, the case’s poorer performance for its primary element—lighting and fan control—leave us less than thrilled. Fix this up, and Deep Cool will have one of the best cases around.
Verdict: 7
$90 (street), www.deepcool.com
A Good Home for Your Beloved Components
It shouldn’t be a big surprise that one of our bestperforming Mini-ITX/mATX cases is also one of the biggest. Aside from the fact Lian-Li knows what it’s doing, it’s just downright difficult to craft up a well-working design in a very tight space. Sacrifices have to be made, and we often find manufacturers are a bit too willing to prioritize size over usefulness. Or, worse, they pack their smaller cases with some gimmick that’s awesome on paper, but not all that practical (or good) in real life.
That said, moving from a more conventional mid-tower chassis to a smaller design doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll have a worse building experience. If anything, some of the more creatively designed cases—such as Silverstone’s Sugo SG09—present a wonderful challenge for a novice-to-intermediate builder to tackle. They’re tricky to work with, but not impossible, and the payoffs can be great: a svelte, souped-up system whose cables are all tucked neatly away and whose cooling is fairly formidable thanks to the system’s smaller design.
Unfortunately, there are a number of smaller chassis that just aren’t worth the trouble. Some will give you a headache; some are downright laughable. We saw the full range in this roundup, and let that be a lesson. Research the heck out of your case before you buy or, better yet, try it out at a friend’s house (or your favorite big-box store, if they’ll let you). These might not cost much, but there’s no reason why you should plunk down $50 for a poorly designed case. Save your cents until you find that diamond
in the rough. Trust us, it’s worth it.
| Specifications | ||||||
| Lian-Li PC-V360 |
Rosewill Line-M |
Silverstone PS08 |
Rosewill R363-M BK |
Silverstone Sugo SST-SG09B |
Deep Cool Steam Castle | |
| Dimensions (W x H x D) |
7 x 15.3 x 18.9 inches |
7.3 x 14.4 x 15.7 inches |
6.6 x 24 x 15.7 inches |
7.2 x 14.3 x 15.4 inches |
8.66x11.6x13.9 inches |
7 x 16.5 x 16 inches |
| Included Fans |
14cm front, 12cm top |
12cm front blue LED, 12cm rear |
12cm front |
9cm rear |
12cm rear, 12cm side, 18cm top |
12cm rear, 20cm front |
| Additional Fan Mounts |
2x 12cm side |
2x 12cm side |
8cm front, 8/9cm rear |
None | 2x 8cm side | 2x 12/14cm top |
| Drive Bays |
5x 3.5, 3x 2.5 |
2x 5.25, 3x 3.5 |
2x 5.25, 4x 3.5, 1x 2.5 |
2x 5.25, 3x 3.5 |
1x slim optical, 2x 3.5, 4x 2.5 |
1x 5.25, 3x 3.5, 2x 2.5 |
| Max GPU Length |
12.2 inches |
12.5 inches |
14.1 inches |
Undeclared |
13.3 inches |
12.6 inches |
| Mobos Supported |
MicroATX |
MicroATX |
MicroATX, Mini-ITX |
MicroATX |
MicroATX, Mini-ITX | MicroATX, Mini-ITX |
| Connectors |
2x USB 3.0 |
2x USB 3.0 |
2x USB 3.0 |
2x USB 2.0 | 2x USB 3.0 |
2x USB 3.0, 2x USB 2.0 |
| Weight |
12.1lb |
7lb |
7.62lb |
13lb |
11.7lb |
15lb |
| Price |
$130 | $40 |
$40 |
$50 |
$100 |
$90 |
| Test Score |
9 |
6 |
6 |
4 |
8 |
7 |
From maximumpc
from http://bit.ly/1IrKbHW
